Now that the sculpt and resin beak are done I have moved on to making the pattern for the leather pieces.
Here I have finished the beak casting by removing the extra resin, and I've returned the plasticine I cut off earlier to the end of the beak.
Since the resin beak will sit atop the leather I need to extend the clay underneath it, but reduced in size to fit within the beak. I've marked in red where the leather trim will go.
Tape won't stick to plasticine, so I have covered the clay in a brushed on coating of urethane resin.
Once the resin has cured I remark my seam lines with a black Sharpie™, and then I've started covering one half of the face in blue masking tape. Since the mask is symmetrical I only need a pattern for half of it.
As the layers of tape cross one another I keep remarking the seam lines so I don't lose sight of them.
Lastly I cut the tape pattern along the lines I've marked with an X-acto knife. Ideally they should lay almost flat, and these do.
Here I have finished the beak casting by removing the extra resin, and I've returned the plasticine I cut off earlier to the end of the beak.
Since the resin beak will sit atop the leather I need to extend the clay underneath it, but reduced in size to fit within the beak. I've marked in red where the leather trim will go.
Tape won't stick to plasticine, so I have covered the clay in a brushed on coating of urethane resin.
Once the resin has cured I remark my seam lines with a black Sharpie™, and then I've started covering one half of the face in blue masking tape. Since the mask is symmetrical I only need a pattern for half of it.
As the layers of tape cross one another I keep remarking the seam lines so I don't lose sight of them.
Lastly I cut the tape pattern along the lines I've marked with an X-acto knife. Ideally they should lay almost flat, and these do.
You make it look so simple. :) If only, right?
ReplyDeleteI love seeing your process. The final product looks amazing, too.
ReplyDeleteDear sir, mind if i use these templates?
ReplyDelete